From the U.S., fly into Cancun, pick up a rental car and head south down Highway 307. Or, fly into Cozumel for a short stay, take the ferry over to Playa Del Carmen and rent a car there. We find we tend to get better rates if we make a reservation prior to coming down. Budget often offers the best deals and has an office in both Cancun and Playa. While jeeps are fun, for this trip, you will probably be more comfortable in a small sedan.

We've heard rumors that Continental is beginning service to Chetumal so it may be possible to fly there and rent a car for the 2-1/2 hour drive.

If coming from Cancun or Cozumel, the drive through Quintana Roo is very interesting. The road goes right by the entrance to the Mayan ruins in Tulum and from there, through a rain forest around the international biosphere reserve of Sian Ka'an. You will see kids that appear to have walked out of the jungle standing along side the road with baby monkeys or parrots for sale. It is not unusual to observe exotic birds and other fauna at any point in the drive. During one trip we traveled through clouds of butterflies for about 15 miles ...so thick that truckers were pulling off the road to clean their radiators. You will see lots of Mayan mounds and even an occasional small Mayan temple from the road. You will also probably encounter federal military checkpoints where soldiers are checking for narcotics trafficking. While they may want to search the car or luggage, there's no need to be alarmed. As long as you aren't carrying any contraband, you'll pass right through.

We recommend that no matter how much gas you have, you should top off your tank in the town of Felipe Carrillo Puerto. It is the last gas station before Xcalak and for some vehicles, barely less than a half a tank away. (If you find yourself running low, you can buy gas in Xcalak but it will be more expensive.) There is a great little taco stand In F.C.P. across the street from the gas station with pork tortas (sandwiches) and chicken tamales to die for. You can also pick up groceries (just the basics), drinking water and some fresh fruit in F.C.P.

During the drive, keep a lookout for "Topes" road signs that indicate an approaching speed bump. It is no coincidence that there is usually an auto repair shop next to the bumps. There will also be small children and women nearby selling food to motorist.

For most of the drive, you are on decent paved roads. The main north and south road along Quintana Roo coast is Highway 307. From the airport, you will drive through Playa del Carmen, Tulum and Felipe Carrillo Puerto. Stay on 307 until you're just south of the town of Limones. A short distance after you pass through Limones, take a left off of Highway 307 at the (overhead) sign to Majahual. After approximately 50 kilometers, take a right on the new road to Xcalak. (Note that from kilometer post 41 to 49, the road gets a little rough so you might want to reduce your speed slightly.) It will be impossible to miss the turn. Most likely, there will be a military checkpoint at the intersection.

From the turnoff, the new road is 60 kilometers long. After 60 kilometers, you will come to a "T" intersection where you take a left and soon you will leave the paved road. It is a short distance to town.

On a recent drive, it took us almost exactly 2-hours to drive from the gas station in Felipe Carrillo Puerto to the town of Xcalak driving at a speed of just over 100 kilometers per hour. The drive included a stop at the checkpoint of five to ten minutes.

While the drive takes a while, it is through some beautiful country. You will likely see some interesting birds and animals and some awesome views.

Regarding the checkpoints - the soldiers are usually very courteous and will probably ask to make a very quick search of the car. Simply get out of the car, let them have a look and you'll usually be on your way in a minute or two. We have found that the occasional offer of a cold beverage usually speeds the next search.

You should anticipate a trip from the airport in Cancun to take about 5 hours depending on the speed you drive and the number of stops you make. While you've probably heard it before, be reminded that this drive is best done in daylight. If you have a late arriving flight, it would be best to spend the night along the way.